PH: You've been involved in Native storytelling for over a decade, including working on Reservation Dogs. How did you approach the unique challenges of creating hair and makeup looks for Fancy Dance, especially given its portrayal of modern Native life?
Sharon Tabb: Fancy Dance was a unique project, and I wanted to ensure that we accurately represented the hair and makeup. First and foremost, I spoke with the director and the native talent to ensure we were aligned on both the story and the visual aesthetics. We considered various economic and cultural factors. It was important to showcase beautiful native hairstyles, and since Jax's character is queer, we also factored in a slightly masculine presentation.
PH: For Lily Gladstone’s character, Jax, you created a "no-makeup" makeup look that aligns with her character's personality and lifestyle. Can you talk us through your process for achieving this look, and how it reflects Jax's priorities and emotional state?
Sharon Tabb: Lily Gladstone's character, Jax, is queer, and we intentionally chose a no-makeup look with a masculine touch for her. In the story, she is already fearing the worst and believes her sister is gone. Jax is on a mission to find out what happened to her sister and isn't concerned about her appearance. She is trying to stay strong for her niece until she can get confirmation about Tawi's fate.
To achieve Jax's look, I prepped her skin and then used a combination of cream foundation and moisturizer to create a dewy finish. I applied cream blush and added a subtle bronzer to warm her up, using spot concealer without concealing her eyes to maintain a more raw appearance. Her brows were lightly groomed, and I finished with a tinted lip balm.
PH: Both Jax and Roki wear long, natural hairstyles that evolve throughout the film. How did you balance maintaining authenticity with making the hair look functional for their on-the-go lives? What were some key details you focused on to make the hairstyles feel realistic and true to Native traditions?
Sharon Tabb: Our objective was to design a look that felt authentic and fitting for both characters. We took into account Jax's more masculine aesthetic, influenced by her queer identity, which played a significant role in shaping her overall appearance. In contrast, Roki embodied a youthful and vibrant vibe, which we wanted to capture in his design. To enhance their individuality, we delved into various styles appropriate for long hair, experimenting with traditional braiding techniques and contemporary styles that reflected their personalities. This exploration allowed us to ensure that each character's hairstyle and makeup not only suited their unique traits but also complemented their overall portrayal in the narrative.
PH: Lily Gladstone has short hair in the film, yet you needed to create long, traditional Native hairstyles for her character. What was your strategy for blending extensions into her natural hair without it looking artificial?
Sharon Tabb: We use high-quality natural hair clip-in extensions that are specifically designed to blend seamlessly with her existing hair. The first step is to ensure a perfect color match, selecting shades that complement her natural hue. Once the extensions are chosen, I carefully layer them into her hair. To create a cohesive look, I start by backcombing the roots of her hair slightly. This technique helps provide volume and allows for better blending with the extensions. After layering in the extensions, I blend the top layers of her hair over them to disguise any demarcation. When we move on to styling her braids, I dampen her hair with a spray bottle to achieve a more pliable texture. I then apply a soft gel to both the natural and extension hair, which helps to hold everything together while also ensuring that the shorter strands blend smoothly with the longer extensions. This detailed approach not only enhances the overall aesthetic but also guarantees that the braids look polished and natural.
PH: In contrast to the more natural looks, you also got to experiment with glamorous looks, especially for the powwow scenes and the strip club scenes. How did you strike the balance between these two very different aesthetics while ensuring that both felt grounded in the film’s larger cultural context?
Sharon Tabb: I think it goes back to research and discussion to keep it authentic to those specific scenes. For the pow-wow scene, we stayed true to traditional performance makeup, which entailed a full makeup application but clean lines, bold eyes, cheeks, and lips. For the strip club, we did typical glam makeup with lashes and added in some gemstones and space buns for Crystle Lightning.
PH: How do you see the role of hair and makeup in the development of a character, particularly in a film like Fancy Dance where much of the story centers on resilience, identity, and survival? Were there any moments where you felt the hair and makeup choices directly influenced or deepened the portrayal of Jax and Roki’s emotional journeys?
Sharon Tabb: The overall appearance of any character is vital in bringing a story to life. This is especially true for "Fancy Dance," where cultural representation was a top priority. The characters' looks are deeply influenced by economic circumstances, identity, heritage, and the struggle for survival. Their hero looks not only captured their essence but also functioned beautifully as day looks. Jax’s long single braid and Roki’s flowing, youthful hair exemplified their individuality and strength. These carefully crafted makeup and styles perfectly aligned with their journey throughout the film, enhancing both their character development and the narrative.
PH: As someone with deep ties to the Native community, what does cultural sensitivity in hair and makeup design mean to you? Were there any specific cultural practices or traditions you felt were important to respect when designing the looks for the characters in Fancy Dance?
Sharon Tabb: Honoring the hair and makeup process is crucial, especially since hair carries deep significance in Native communities. We prioritized this in our collaboration with Erica Trembley, Lily Gladstone, and my talented key artists, Kasey Cooper and Selina Dornan (all indigenous). The teamwork made everything more seamless; my role was just one piece of a larger puzzle—success is rooted in collaboration. I strongly encourage you to ask questions, conduct thorough research, and engage with your fellow Native community members to gain valuable insights and perspectives.
PH: Hair and makeup don’t exist in a vacuum—they’re often in conversation with the costume design and overall production design. How did you collaborate with other departments to ensure cohesion in the visual language of Fancy Dance?
Sharon Tabb: Absolutely, the collaboration between the wardrobe and hair/makeup teams is essential. Conducting makeup and hair camera tests alongside the selected wardrobe allowed us to make informed decisions. For instance, Lily's everyday tomboy look was enhanced by a simple single braid that perfectly captured her essence. In contrast, for the family dinner with her father, we chose a more sophisticated lower dual braid, reflecting her character's depth and her identity as a queer individual. This attention to detail truly enriches the storytelling.
PH: What were some of the biggest challenges you faced in your role as department head on this project, and how did you overcome them? Were there any moments on set when you felt particularly proud of how the hair and makeup came together?
Sharon Tabb: The most significant challenge we faced was the humidity, which heavily impacted hair and makeup. To address this, we made sure to schedule touch-ups throughout the day and prepared for the conditions during our morning session. We used setting sprays and blot sheets to also assist with keeping the makeup intact. For the hair, we used gels and mousses to keep the fly always at bay. I am incredibly proud of the hair and makeup transformations we achieved. Every scene turned out beautifully! The moment when Jax and Lily are in the stream, with Roki catching crawdads, was particularly stunning—the landscape combined with their hair looks truly captivating. Additionally, the authenticity brought by the real powwow dancers added immense value; their presence enriched the scene and helped us create a genuine representation.
PH: You’ve worked on so many important projects, including Reservation Dogs and now Fancy Dance. What advice would you give to aspiring hair and makeup artists who want to work in film, especially in projects that prioritize authentic cultural representation?
Sharon Tabb: I highly recommend starting with cosmetology or esthetician school as your first step. For hair styling, dedicate yourself to studying and honing your skills; excellence takes practice. When it comes to makeup, consider enrolling in a specialized makeup school or working with a seasoned makeup artist for hands-on training. It's vital to do your research on instructors—ensure they have credible experience in film and television.
Dive into the local theater scene, join film groups online, or participate in in-person gatherings in your city. Networking is incredibly important; the more connections you make, the better your opportunities will be.
Don’t hesitate to volunteer or intern at the beginning of your journey. It can be challenging if you have bills to pay and a family to support, but remember that some sacrifices are essential to get started. You will face ups and downs, but don't let that discourage you. Keep pushing yourself to learn and grow. I’ve been in the makeup industry since 1991, and I’m still evolving every day!
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